Because Kanazawa was not bombed in WW2 and hasn’t suffered from major fires that have destroyed older districts in other Japanese cities, some areas here are relatively unchanged from the 18th century. It has been our meandering through the ‘old Kanazawa’ that has captured us the most.
Yesterday, we wandered the samurai families’ part of town, today we ventured to the suburb that was essentially the red light district in the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries.
The Higashi Chaya District (‘Eastern Teahouse District’) was on the main road into and out of the city and city officials ensured it was kept to the edge of town. Various Shoguns attempted to shut the suburb down, but always unsuccessfully. It was a suburb of inns, tea houses and restaurants – now it is a suburb of inns, small shops and restaurants – the night clubs are in the centre of town near the railway station. Despite the snow and sleet it was a great part of town to wander, PLUS we managed to find a very good coffee.
Nonstop Coffee Shop is perched on a corner in the thick of the district. It’s a one-man show by a barista who spent a recent two years honing his skills in Melbourne. We literally squeezed into his shop and the Lady and I showed great fortitude in drinking a smooth as silk flat white or two on oat milk. Wild! Mitchell and Jemima attest to the perfection of his espresso and Americano, too. Of course, nothing would beat an international roast served with fish and chips at the legendary Cassimatis’ cafe in downtown Rosewood in its halcyon years.
Surprisingly, there is not even a single Greek cafe in the main Kanazawa market. There is, however, a tiny kitchenette in our room. Chef Mitchell has the same sized kitchen in his. Between us there will be chicken in leek and mushroom sauce, roast potatoes, a tomato salad and berry crumble for dessert. And … if all else fails, there’s a Starbucks on every corner (joking, Scotty). Although rumour has it that KFC is the destination of choice for locals on Christmas Day.
I guess tomorrow will reveal all …
Christmas blessings from the Cunnington-Smythes
The streets are quite narrow!
Persimmons there for the picking.
The Very Excellent Adventures of the Cunnington-Smythes 
Farley, this might sound a bit ‘out there’ but your most recent post reminded me of Sean Duffy, a Catholic detective in the RUC in Belfast during the Troubles. He’s the central character in a series of novels by Adrian McKinty, one of which is titled ‘The Cold, Cold Ground’. Your ‘Cold, Cold Kanazawa’ set me off!
Any chance of a pizza near your digs? That would go nicely with a Starbucks.
Speaking of “digs”, can you squeeze in a shot or two for your next post.
Love the streetscapes! And, the fare from your kitchen sounds perfect for cold, cold Kanazawa.
Cheerio and happy Christmas to all.
Farquhar
On Tue, 24 Dec. 2024, 5:48 pm The Very Excellent Adventures of the