We decided that, instead of heading straight back to Sofia, we would spend a night in Veliko Tarnovo, a town that was Bulgaria’s capital in the Middle Ages. This would require a four hour bus trip north through the mountains and to a city that sits overlooking the Danube plain.
The phrases ‘Female Bulgarian bus driver,’ and ‘Faded Russian beauty’ possibly conjure up a particularly vivid image for both my readers. The bus driver was actually a wonderful and vibrant woman and couldn’t have been more helpful – the bus, however, was a Russian whose beauty had faded in the 1970’s and she has fallen further since. One highlight of the journey was seeing Mitch make an emergency visit to a Bulgarian roadside toilet, the locals on board knew better (they all looked knowingly at one another and stayed put). He has of course had extensive practice with similar amenities on his travels through India. At least he made it to the toilet and at least we made it to Tarnovo!
The town itself is certainly striking, and we had two of the best meals of the journey so far. But Tarnovo seemed to be a little like ‘Ye Olde Sydney Town’ in the Balkans. There were some timeless scenes, an elderly copper worker making pots and pans for locals, rather than trinkets for tourists – a scene that immediately elicited memories of Sarajevo. The city itself is a beautiful one to wander around, but we never really got a feel for the place – perhaps our stay was too brief? The bus trip was the consolation, and sometimes detours are worth it just for the journey itself.
The meals? Both places specialising in Bugarian cuisine, simple fresh ingredients perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. Complemented by wines from the Danube plain.
It also happened to be the 39th anniversary of our wedding so it was a good one to spend with part of our family and to celebrate with fine food. Plus it was a day spent doing something we both love doing together, – wandering and wondering.
Even if somtimes we were wondering if the bus was going to make it over the next snow-covered range….
Farley
Homer Simpson of the Bulgarian central mountain range.
The Very Excellent Adventures of the Cunnington-Smythes 
Gorgeous photos – except for the loo. Mitch must have been desperate!
Dear Farley
Well, it’s not long now before you say “better let you go” to Bulgaria. It’s very reassuring to see that you appear to be free of any physical or psychological damage after your flagellation by that young girl and that Mitch came out of that toilet block in one piece.
I am also very happy to hear that you thoroughly enjoyed the Nutcracker ballet as your experience was so very different to mine, and it’s got nothing to do with the location. You see, I accompanied my mother and sister to a Russian performance of this famous ballet in Brisbane back when the Warsaw Pact was in its infancy. Mum prepped me with, “there are soldiers in it, Michael”, and I can remember waiting, ever so ignorantly, for the screen to descend, the movie to begin and the soldiers to fight. Of course, I waited in vain but, I guess, Mum didn’t lie to me. With hindsight, I now understand that such experiences build forbearance.
In an earlier communication I referred to knowing when you’re in Australia rather than Bulgaria. Here’s another example: John Howard spent some time yesterday with the ABC’s radio commentary team at the Sydney Test. First of all, he had to find a spot to sit, then there was a bit of friendly critiquing of his cricket skills followed by a discussion of the game – all on a first name basis. Then he just got up and left. This is a former Prime Minister! Of course, none of this changes my view of his tenure from 1996 to 2007.
May your journey home be free of delays, lost luggage, inferior seating and odious humans.
Cheerio
Farquhar
On Sun, 5 Jan 2020 at 05:09, The Very Excellent Adventures of the Cunnington-Smythes wrote:
> cunningtonsmythe posted: ” We decided that, instead of heading straight > back to Sofia, we would spend a night in Veliko Tarnovo, a town that was > Bulgaria’s capital in the Middle Ages. This would require a four hour bus > trip north through the mountains and to a city that sits over” >