From my, albeit limited, reading of Bulgarian history it is a county prone to invasions and defeats. Even as allies they often picked the losing side. They did have two wins in the last 200 years of regular wars, one against the Serbs and another against the Turks. But generally it has been 2000 years of slim pickings for those wanting to organise victory parades for Bugarian armies.
Today we visited the National History Museum which is housed in a magnificent building that was once the Communist Party headquarters. It does have a whole floor dedicated to the smashing Bulgarian wins against the Turks and the Serbs, but the rest of it is dedicted to the history of Bulgarians living with invaders – Macedonians, Romans, Huns, etc, etc, etc. The most interesting displays for me, however, were those from the 5th century BC until about the year 0, when occupation of this place by foreigners started in earnest.
The earliest copper tools ever found were made around here – in other words today I saw some of the first metals made by humans. Today I saw some of the oldest pieces of gold adornments ever made by humans, and some of the oldest bronze tools made by humans. Some of the tools would have been used for digging soil – there is some anthropological evidence and arguments that the first crop planted for human consumption was artichokes not wheat, and in the Balkans not Mesopotamia. It’s just that wheat is far more productive and so allowed civilizations to develop. And not everyone likes artichokes.
The ticket also included entrance to a 10th century UNESCO listed site, the Boyana Church. Visitors are only allowed 10 minutes inside because of the risk of damage caused by humidity. Again a wonderful experience for someone who, until his teenage years, had never seen anything older than his Evans relatives. Or more cultural than the Rosewood State School concert in Grade 6.
That concert did not include ballet – the thought of Piggy Franklin in ballet pumps is a little disturbing frankly, but yesterday Dr C-S and I saw the Bulgarian Ballet perform The Nutcracker. I don’t care one bit that half the audience was under the age of 10, the experience was wonderful. Bulgaria is a poor country, and at interval most people bought out a plastic bag with sandwiches or snacks. (At least the Rosewood State School P & C put on free tea, coffee and cupcakes – much classier) It is still hard scrabble for most Bulgarians, mainly because of upper level corruption, but I can’t remember ever sitting in a more captivated or appreciative audience, which made it even more special for both of us!
We are starting to think of farewells – to Mitch, Grace and Bulgaria, we continue to think of all those affected by fires, but we are also determined to make the most of our last days here. In fact, if I found out that Piggy Franklin was making his debut in a ballet choreographed by Miss Moneypenny, you know what? I might even be tempted to stay on for a bit.
Farley


The 12th century artist had his brother and his nephew sit for him. That’s why Mary has a beard and Jesus looks 8 years old

Sav, the Thracian god of sausage making.

5th Century BC. Exquisite!

A worshipper of Sav, and the Thracian Sausage