We decided that, instead of heading straight back to Sofia, we would spend a night in Veliko Tarnovo, a town that was Bulgaria’s capital in the Middle Ages. This would require a four hour bus trip north through the mountains and to a city that sits overlooking the Danube plain.

The phrases ‘Female Bulgarian bus driver,’ and ‘Faded Russian beauty’ possibly conjure up a particularly vivid image for both my readers. The bus driver was actually a wonderful and vibrant woman and couldn’t have been more helpful – the bus, however, was a Russian whose beauty had faded in the 1970’s and she has fallen further since. One highlight of the journey was seeing Mitch make an emergency visit to a Bulgarian roadside toilet, the locals on board knew better (they all looked knowingly at one another and stayed put). He has of course had extensive practice with similar amenities on his travels through India. At least he made it to the toilet and at least we made it to Tarnovo!

The town itself is certainly striking, and we had two of the best meals of the journey so far. But Tarnovo seemed to be a little like ‘Ye Olde Sydney Town’ in the Balkans. There were some timeless scenes, an elderly copper worker making pots and pans for locals, rather than trinkets for tourists – a scene that immediately elicited memories of Sarajevo. The city itself is a beautiful one to wander around, but we never really got a feel for the place – perhaps our stay was too brief? The bus trip was the consolation, and sometimes detours are worth it just for the journey itself.

The meals? Both places specialising in Bugarian cuisine, simple fresh ingredients perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. Complemented by wines from the Danube plain.

It also happened to be the 39th anniversary of our wedding so it was a good one to spend with part of our family and to celebrate with fine food. Plus it was a day spent doing something we both love doing together, – wandering and wondering.

Even if somtimes we were wondering if the bus was going to make it over the next snow-covered range….

Farley

Homer Simpson of the Bulgarian central mountain range.