Barga is a one of the many medieval villages in the Appennines about an hour by bus from Lucca. When we went there yesterday the drive up the valley to the town was exquisite. The road follows the river valley and goes through numerous small towns – each with a church, a shop or two and an African guy trying to sell umbrellas to any tourist who stops. Barga itself, when we finally got there, was clouded in mist, stunningly beautiful, – and essentially closed.
Historically it was more closely aligned with the Lombards than with the Tuscans. As is the way in this part of the world, the town still celebrates the time they beat Lucca in a 12th century punch-up – or at least kept Lucca out of their town until the Florentines threatened to intervene. (That means they’ve had that same party now about 1,000 times!) Mind you, they also have a day to celebrate the time they joined with the Lucchese to keep out the Florentines. Sadly they were unable to keep out the more recent invaders – the Poms.
This part of Italy has quite a large UK expat community, but one that is now reeling with the uncertainty of Brexit. It could mean that all those who moved here from England and Scotland to take advantage of the cheap housing, mild climate, and ready availability of African umbrella salesmen, could suddenly become holidaymakers rather than residents and who are therefore unable to stay in their own house, (sometimes only house) for more than four months in any calendar year. No doubt this will have a flow-on effect on the English, Irish and Scottish themed pubs that also dot these valleys.
Upon our return to Lucca we had the best meal of the trip so far – not at an Irish pub but rather a Sicillian restaurant just round the corner. Every dish was first class; pork with artichokes, octopus with an unpronouncable sauce, even the simple green salad that accompanied the meal – followed by traditional Sicillian desserts . It was fitting way to farewell Nat who was with us for Christmas and is now staying with friends in London.
There is still so much to see in this beautiful part of the world. We havn’t yet seen the coast and there are a number of small hillside villages each with their own market day. Tomorrow however, we are going back to Florence, and that Remington, is almost always a good idea.
Enjoy the photos!
Farley et al.
The Very Excellent Adventures of the Cunnington-Smythes 