JC the King, Capa and My Knees.

Today I took my knees for their final wander around a European city – they are becoming less appreciative of Madrid as the holiday continues. We all went to Madrid’s 20th Century art museum yesterday (ie me, Lefty, Righty, Maryanne and Linda) and spent time there. Spain saw the origins of the Cubists, the Surrealists and some other ists – Picasso’s ‘Guernica’ is the centrepiece of the museum. Picasso and its owners refused to allow it to be shown in Facist Spain however it finally returned home after democracy was restored in the ’70s. Despite being one of the World’s most recognised pieces of art, for me it wasn’t the highlight. The highlight was an exhibition of photographs.

Linda and I are Orwell fans and his book, ‘Homage to Catalonia’, is an autobiographical account of his time fighting for the Republican forces against Franco’s troops in Spain in the Spanish Civil War. He became very disillusioned towards the end of the war, he also became shot in the throat. He would have appreciated some of the spaces in this gallery. The museum has four or five rooms dedicated to the art produced by supporters of the Spanish Republic, ‘Guernica’ is part of this collection. (For balance it does have one very small room for the art of those who supported Franco). However it wasn’t Picasso or Orwell, but Robert Capa who captured my attention.

There is a whole wall in one room dedicated to Robert Capa. Capa was a Hungarian Jew who worked as a photojournalist and is the most famous war photographer in history. His image ‘The Falling Soldier’ is the iconic image of the Spanish Civil War, arguably the most famous war photograph ever taken. He also took some of the most recognised photos of WW2. He became famous, he became wealthy, and he became lots of little bits when he stood on a land mine in Vietnam in 1954. The photography and the art in those rooms was first class.

Tomorrow is a public holiday to celebrate the ex-King’s birthday. Juan Carlos, who has now abdicated, is a revered figure in Spain. Franco appointed him as heir, and the King assumed power on Franco’s death. Within months he called for democratic elections. Later when there was a seige of the Spanish Parliament as part of an attempted coup by right-wing Royalists, Juan Carlos immediately gave a televised address ordering the rebels to surrender, the Army to retake Parliament and for democracy to be restored. The coup failed, go King JC!

It wouldn’t be all bad if the Spanish felt a little less enamoured with their king. The only thing sold in bakeries today are Royal Cakes (they look like a €40 sweet cream buns) nothing will be open, the streets will be packed in some places and deserted in the rest, and Spain will be fully occupied celebrating His Royal Highness with parades, wine, fireworks and buns. It will be difficult to get food, it will be difficult to get anywhere except by taxi to the airport.

Probably a good day to head home I reckon.

See you back in Oz.

F C-S