The Imperial Palace

  
Today Linda had to go by herself to meet agents who specialise in foreign exchange students. Sadly that left me to explore the food and sights of Tokyo alone, which I forced myself to do because of my commitment to my reading public. This week the Imperial Palace is open to the public, so I went there to see how the Emperor lives.

I know little about Japanese history, but one period fascinates me. Today I saw the building where, on August 15 a recording of a speech by Emperor Hirohito was broadcast by radio announcing the unconditional surrender of the Japanese to end WW2.  

The broadcast was the first time most Japanese had heard the Emperors voice. It is estimated that fewer than 300 people outside the family had ever heard him speak – most Japanese viewed their Emperor as a living deity. Historians think that his family, his personal staff and the Japanese Cabinet were his total lifetime audience until that point. As if the shock of surrender was not enough, Hirohito had a squeaky, effeminate voice. Not exactly what you’d be expecting from a mighty living god who lords over the Samurai classes.

The Americans then did something wise as conquerors. General Douglas MacArthur moved into the imperial Palace and they didn’t execute anyone from the royal family as war criminals. MacArthur became the new Emperor, baseball became the new sport and hamburgers were on the menu. Unlike the Russians or the Germans the Americans were benign rulers. They neither raped nor pillaged as a general rule – today I saw an exhibition of priceless paintings from the Meiji period that remained in Japan rather than heading for the USA. Douglas MacArthur stayed as Japan’s major deity until Hello Kitty arrived and displaced him. (There is not a corn cob pipe to be seen anywhere now – but Hello Kitty shit is everywhere)

I loved today’s wanderings. My spoken Japanese has not improved (In fact the only phrase I know – “Where is the toilet?” proved quite useless, as the Japanese policeman was born in Coffs Harbour and lived in Australia until his parents went back to Japan when he was aged ten. Plus he didn’t know where the toilets were!) There is something incredibly peaceful about the setting I visited, again aesthetics take precedence over other considerations.  Plus I am a little more knowledgable about Japanese history and culture. In fact I might even buy a Hello Kitty t-shirt as a souvenir.